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Cleaning the Bicycle Seat Post
post 02/13/15, 01:09 AM
#1 
VeloBase User
Join Date: 02/01/15
Posts: 2

Maintaining your seat post does not require you to clean each time you ride or even once a week. However, if you are riding several times a week, it is a good idea to remove it and clean it once a month. I have seen seat posts frozen in the seat tube because of rust and corrosion. You may not realize it, but it is a definite sweat magnet. And sweat = rust on certain parts of the bike depending on the material used. Obviously, during the summer month's this will warrant keeping an eye on things. However, if you are spending time on the stationary trainer during the winter months, the sweat factor is very real.

1)  To check for any rust build-up, remove your seat post. Before you do so, mark your spot with tape. I have chosen a blue masking tape for visibility reasons. This tape will not hold. I normally use black electrical tape.(more:www.carbonbikeoem.com)

2) After loosening the seat post binder bolt, pull out the post. Wipe it down with your rag. You will probably notice the copper color of rust on the rag. After wiping it down, cover the post with grease below your mark. 

3) Then slip the post back down the seat tube and tighten the binder bolt. There will be some grease that will gather at the top edge of the seat tube. Just wipe it off.


post 02/09/17, 05:04 PM
#2 
Vintage User
Join Date: 01/27/17
Posts: 1
What is the purpose of applying grease to a seatpost?  That would seem to prevent rust but also let the seatpost slip down instead of holding its place.

My only seatposts are aluminum alloy.
post 10/30/17, 09:08 AM
#3 
Vintage User
Join Date: 03/17/13
Posts: 6
Hi Mirta

There's no need to remove a seatpost with anything like the regulatory that you suggest. All that really serves is to make it difficult and awkward to re-position your post and saddle in the exactly the place that you were comfortable with in the first place. 

When you're building up your bike initially, as opposed to what Striegel suggests above, you should always apply a very thin and very liberal application of something like Phil Wood's waterproof grease to either the inside of the seat-tube or the bottom of the post itself. This serves two main purposes: 

1 - To stop your post seizing in the seat-tube over time. Ally seatpins in steel frames, or worse, steel pins in steel frames are a real sucker for corroding and seizing over time as most people put bare (dry) seatpins in dry seat-tubes. As you rightly point out, they do attract sweat, but it's more about the crud and rain that is flicked up off the back wheel that seeps into the tube over the months and years that really do the seizing damage. Vintage MTB's are a total pain for this if they weren't looked after.

2 - To help prevent scratching to the seatpin itself. Not frame tolerances are the same, not all seatpins have been milled exactly to the correct diameter, and they are often a "tight fit" in the seat-tube. You know what it's like when you send your prized and highly polished Campag aero seatpin into a seattube that's too tight... zig-zag scratch etched forever that never polishes out. A very liberal amount of grease will help to prevent this - or also, preventing the same zig-zags upon removal. 

If you build the bike correctly in the first place, you should have no trouble removing seatpins or bottom bracket shells after 25 years of hard use. It's amazing what a very small dollop of waterproof grease on b/b shell threads can save you from after years and years of abuse when you're skinning your fingers trying to remove the blighter and the fixed cup spanner slips off as you are hammering it free! 


Cinelli
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